Understanding Climbing Shoes: How to Find the Perfect Fit

One of the biggest setbacks I faced when I first started climbing wasn't just learning how to climb, but it was finding a shoe that fit me best.

I got so many different suggestions and spent so much money on shoes that ended up not working for my foot size anyway, and I just wanted someone to tell me the exact brand and shoe to buy. BUT, I learned very quickly that it's based on what I like, not what others like.

With brands like La Sportiva, Scarpa, Evolv, Five Ten, Mad Rock, Black Diamond, So iLL, and UnParallel, they all offered different fits and sizing. It's easy to quickly feel overwhelmed. But there is some good news: there isn't one "best" climbing shoe. The best shoe is the one that fits your feet and suits the type of climbing you enjoy.

Why Climbing Shoes Matter:

Climbing shoes are designed to provide precision, grip on holds, and sensitivity. A well-fitting pair not only improves your confidence, but it can also help with your footwork and overall climbing. However, if you don't pick a pair well, then the shoe can make climbing feel a little harder.

Choose a Shoe Based on Your Climbing Style:

Before shopping for a new pair of shoes. It's really important to consider what type of climbing you'll be doing most.

• Indoor rope climbing: Look for a comfortable, versatile shoe.

• Outdoor sport climbing: A balance of comfort and precision.

• Bouldering: More aggressive shoes offer better performance on steep terrain and technical moves.

• Trad or multi-pitch climbing: Comfort becomes the priority when you'll be wearing your shoes for hours.

  
  

Understanding Shoes:

Neutral:

• Flat and comfortable, neutral shoes are ideal for beginners, long gym sessions, and all-day climbing. (La Sportiva Tarantula & Tarantulace, Black Diamond Momentum)

Moderate:

• Moderately downturned shoes offer a balance of comfort and performance, making them a great choice for intermediate climbers. (Scarpa Vapor V, La Sportiva Katana Lace)

Aggressive:

• Designed for steep routes and hard bouldering, aggressive shoes provide maximum precision but aren't necessary for most beginners. (Scarpa Drago, La Sportiva Theory)

  
  

Every Brand Fits Differently:

Understanding shoe types is a little confusing, but it's very important to remember that different brands fit differently, which was where I found myself being confused. What my friends recommended didn't feel right for my foot type.

Each climbing shoe company builds its shoes differently. This means fit varies from brand to brand. I have tried all of the shoes, and this is what I found:

• La Sportiva: (My personal favorite) Often fits narrow to medium-width feet and is known for high-performance shoes.

• Scarpa: A great option for medium-to-wider forefeet with secure heel fits.

• Evolv: Typically works well for medium to wide feet and offers versatile performance.

• Five Ten: Known for sticky rubber and comfortable, all-around climbing shoes.

• Mad Rock: Budget-friendly shoes that are a great choice for beginners.

• Black Diamond: Comfortable beginner-entry-level shoes designed for all-day wear.

• UnParallel: Offers precision and friction for technical climbing.

• SoiLL: Features softer shoes.

  
  

How Should Climbing Shoes Fit?

*When you are starting out climbing, there is no need to downsize your climbing shoes too much.*

• Your climbing shoes should feel snug, secure, and precise. NOT painfully tight.

When trying on shoes:

• Your heel should stay firmly in place, (This is what is going to help with heel hooks.)

• There should be little to no empty space inside the shoe,

• Your toes should gently curl without excessive pain, &

• Your foot shouldn't slide while climbing.

  
  

Many leather shoes stretch over time, while synthetic shoes tend to hold their shape. Some different shoes offer Velcro, laces, or slip-ons.

• Velcro: Quick and convenient for gym climbing and bouldering.

• Laces: The most adjustable option for long climbing days.

• Slippers: Lightweight and sensitive, making them popular for crack climbing and training.

  
  

Common Beginner Mistakes:

• Buying the same shoes as professional climbers.

• Sizing down too aggressively.

• Ignoring heel fit.

• Choosing looks over comfort and performance.

It can be a lot at first, but if there are any questions you have, please comment below, and I'd be more than happy to respond with answers! Hope this blog helps you find your pair of shoes!

Good Luck!